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NEWS
MAMMUT SKI ACONCAGUA 2014
EXPEDITION - Part 1
11.09.2014 06:25 | 2088x

 

Píše sa rok 2002. Akurát prebieha čulá výmena e-mailov medzi mnou a známym organizátorom expedícií na najvyššie hory sveta Williamom Marlerom z Kanady. Môj cieľ je jednoznačný, zlyžovanie Aconcagui cestou Polish Direct. A William vie zabezpečiť logistiku. Už sme dohodnutý na detailoch, keď prichádza ponuka účasti na slovenskej expedícii do Peru - Šariš Peru 2003. Mal som tam vytvoriť skialpový segment. Prijímam ponuku a expedíciu Akonkagua odsúvam o rok neskôr. Keby som vtedy vedel, že to bude o 12 rokov, tak by som utekal do Argentíny už v tom case. Ale prišli iné povinnosti, práca, deti a...blablabla...same výhovorky. Projekt lyžovania Akonkagui vo mne ale stale tlel.

Až do minulej zimy. Keď som opäť vyzval skialpové esá na zápas s iránskymi horami, ocitli sme sa v biwaku v 4200 m na severnej sten Damavandu, po jej zlyžovaní. A nič rozumnejšie ma nenapadlo, ako sa opytať, kto pôjde so mnou túto jeseň na Akonkaguu. Ostalo mrazivé ticho, ochladené samotnou mrazivou myšlienkou a chladom okolo nás.  

Jedna ruka sa dvihla predsa.

A som rád, že teraz s Martinom Ondreášom pripavujeme project zlyžovania východnej steny Aconcagui, 6962m, najvyššej hory južnej pologule cestou Polish Direct. Viacej o expedicií sa budete môcť dočítať aj na týchto stránkach a www.james.sk. Držte nám place.

Za podporu a doterajšiu dôveru ďakujeme  Alphasport Mammut (www.alphasport.sk), výhradného dovozcu značky Mammut a firme Elán. 

 

It is the year 2002. We are having the intensive e-mail exchange with William Marler from Canada, the well-known organizer of expeditions on the highest peaks of our planet. My goal at that time is crystal clear, to ski down Aconcagua through Polish Direct Route. William offered me perfect logistic support with his expedition. The deal seemed to be imminent.  But at the same time I am receiving the offer, to be a part of the Slovak Šariš Peru Expedition 2013 where I was expected to create a ski-alpinist module. I accepted the offer and my Aconcagua dream is then postponed by one year. And then new responsibilities occurred - family, kids, job.... all the useless excuses. If I had known that my dream would have been postponed by 12 years, I would have run to Argentine at that time.  But since then the ski Aconcagua project smoldered inside of me. 

Until this winter, when again I challenged the ski-mountaineering aces in the fight with Iran mountains, we found ourselves squeezed in a biwak shelter in 4200m on the north slopes of Damavand, after having skied the north face of the mountain. I raised unexpectedly the bid to join me on the ski Aconcagua conquest the same year. Silence spread and dominated the space, strengthened even more by the coldness of this idea itself and the freezing environmental of the biwak we were temporary inhabitants of .  

Though one hand was risen.

Now, I am happy, that it is Martin Ondreáš with whom I am preparing our project of skiing the Aconcagua mountain through the Polish Direct Route this year, 2014. More about the expedition you can learn soon on this page.

We thank by Alphasport Mammut (www.alphasport.sk) and Elan for the support and the trust offered to us. 

 

1.Goals of expedition 

 

The main goal of expedition is the ski descent of Aconcagua (6962m) via the Polish Direct route. So far, there has only been about 30+ people who have accomplished a full or partial ski-descent of this peak.

 

The team will acclimatize and attempt ski descent of Mount Ameghino (5860m) a neighboring peak of Aconcagua seeing little attention due to its proximity to its more prominent neighbor. In case of extra spare time, there are several other interesting mountains in the area.    

 

The aim of the expedition is also to document the expedition by pictures and footage serving as base for a short documentary film and series of articles in magazines and lectures available to broad Outdoor community after expedition completion. The team will be documenting the way of life of local cultures, the role of mountains in local mythology, as was done through-out all of its previous expeditions (Peru, Bolivia, Turkey, Iran, Armenia, Kyrgyzstan, etc…)

 

The ski descent, in ideal conditions leads from 6962 m summit almost to basecamp in 4200m.

             

 

2. Time plan

November 18, 2014 – arrival in Mendoza

November 20, 2014 – start of approach to Aconcagua base camp

November 23th – December 8th, 2014 - acclimatization and ski-mountaineering on Ameghino and Aconcagua

December 9th - flight back to Europe

 

3. Team

 

Expedition team is built of experienced ski-mountaineers with experience from various mountain ranges around the world.

 

Rastislav Križan: rasto@rastokrizan.sk, www.rastokrizan.sk

UIAGM mountain guide

Since 2002 Alphasport Mammut promotion team leader

 

One of the most experienced Slovak extreme skiers, and an excellent climber. UIAGM guide. Numerous difficult ski-descents and climbs in Slovakia, Alps, Turkey and Iran. He has made vast ski-mountaineering exploration of mountains in Turkey and Iran with over 40 first ski-descents so far in this region. Besides that, he has made several climbs and ski-descents in Peru and Bolivia.

 

  

Martin Ondreáš: m.ondreas@30-70.net

 

 

Outdoor sports enthusiast, dedicated high-mountain skier, explorer and organizer of expeditions to various countries.

Past climbs and ski descents:

First ski descent of Nevado Solimana (6093m, Peru)

First ski descent of SW Face of Coropuna (6425m, Peru)

First ski descent of S Face of Pomerape (6232m, Bolivia)

Parinacota (6323m, Bolivia)

Huayna Potosí (6122m, Bolivia)

Sajama (6532m, Bolivia)

Illimani (6462m, Bolivia)

Pico Ski Cordillera (5700m, Bolivia)

Damavand (5671m, Iran, S and N Face ski descent)

Sabalan (4880m, Iran)

San Boran (4180m, Iran)

Koloon BAstak (4160m, Iran)

Ararat (5165m, Turkey)

Suphan Dagi (4061m, Turkey)

Aragats (4090m, Armenia)

PIk Korona (4820m, Kyrgyztsan)

Pik Boks (4180m, Kyrgyztsan)

and other mountains in the Alps, Norway, Slovak Tatra mountains…  


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